New Echota - Cherokee Capitol

The Pride and Shame of Two Nations - More
 

The original courthouse where the elders
met still stands at New Echota today.



New Echota, founded in 1825, was the first and final capitol of the "unified" Cherokee Nation. The park, now a Georgia Historical Site, is located just off Interstate 75 on highway 225, about an hour north of Atlanta. Here, in what quickly became a bustling little town, hopes of a sovereign government for the Cherokee were both nurtured, then extinguished. Here is where the leaders of a nation of proud immigrants signed a treaty that surrendered their land to a new breed of immigrants. Yes, you read that right; the Cherokee were immigrants. Cherokee migrated from the north and nudged the Muscogee (Creek) Nation to the south and west. The Cherokee migrated south for the same reasons so many other northerners do: a warmer climate, and seemingly abundant natural resources (and a retreat from the European invasion). In 1825, the well armed and aggressive European immigrants were moving south at a rapid pace.

The 1830's Cherokee lived in log
cabins similar to this

The landscape and structures of New Echota capture a key period in the history of the Cherokee. A place where they almost overcame (or assimilated). They had a government very similar to the United States: a constitution, a written language, and, as a nation, a relative amount of wealth. There were those that opposed their "progress" and newly adopted European characteristics. The opposition came from the newly-formed state of Georgia, the US government,  and a good number of the Cherokee themselves. When the "friendly" European visitors discovered gold within Cherokee territory, the onslaught began. The end to any hope of peacefully coexisting with the white settlers was near.
 

The kids sampled old-fashioned hand-
churned butter and sweet buttermilk.

To make a long story short, the Cherokee leaders signed a treaty that either forsook their brethren, or the chieftains sacrificed their own lives for the sake of their people. They were outnumbered and outgunned. What choice did they have? President Andrew Jackson had ignored the Supreme Court's decision to let the Cherokee keep their land, and it would be taken either by force or coercion.

The Cherokee opponents of the treaty retaliated quite violently. The endorsers of the "Treaty of New Echota" were assassinated. The remaining Cherokee were removed. Within ten years of the proud founding of a capitol city, the Cherokee were gone. The endorsers of the "Treaty of New Echota" were assassinated, and the balance of Cherokee were marched West to Oklahoma. 

One of the fireplaces in the old tavern at New Echota.

The march west eventually became known as the Trail of Tears. Women, children, and the elderly were forced to walk much of the way. The cruel cold of winter took about 4,000 of the 15,000 remaining Cherokee. A once proud nation was suddenly silenced. Today, New Echota is an echo of the best of times, and a reminder of the tragic end of a legacy.

Visiting New Echota evokes a range of emotions from amazement and admiration to sorrow and shame. It's a place you must visit if at all possible. It's a history that must not be forgotten.

Lots more New Echota pictures and details can be found here.
 

The Georgia Mountain Fall Festival

The Fairgrounds are Fantastic!

A shady lane passes the exhibits as it winds around
a hill overlooking Lake Chatuge. It's beautiful.

 We planned this entire trip to Hiawassee, Georgia around a single event: the Georgia Mountain Fall Festival. We'd heard a lot about the fairgrounds, but we had not yet attended an event here. The Fall festival, combined with the Autumn colors, gave us a great excuse to visit the park.

The first task in planning this trip was to identify a good campground as a home base for our adventure. The Georgia Mountain Fairgrounds feature two beautiful lakeside campgrounds, but we need full RV hookups for a four night stay, and the fairgrounds do not provide full RV hookups, After doing some research, I booked us a site at Enota Mountain Retreat, a place that qualifies as a PB&J Adventures destination in itself. We camped at Enota in the Winter of 2008 when it was very cold. We wanted to return when the weather was better.

If you are an artisan and craftsperson of rustic
mountain life items, this is the place to be.

We decided to visit the Georgia Mountain Fall Festival on Saturday. Admission was half price, and Ricky Skaggs was performing in the afternoon. We were a little worried about crowds when we first saw the parking lot. I really dislike crowds, especially when I'm trying to keep up with four kids. Much to our surprise, the fairgrounds didn't seem crowded at all. Because the Georgia Mountain Fairgrounds are so large, crowds seem to dissipate soon after passing through the gate. Honestly, it's the first fairground I've visited in which I felt relaxed and wasn't anxious to leave. We were always surrounded by beautiful foliage and rustic architecture.

This awesome wooden waterwheel was operating
during our visit. Very cool!

Soon after arriving at the fairgrounds, we were faced with the difficult but enjoyable task of choosing our lunch. The job proved to be more difficult than we'd anticipated. I think we ended-up purchasing food from 3-4 different food vendors. Lee Thomas and I had some exceptional clam chowder, and the others had hotdogs and various other yummy delicacies. Like the fairground, the food selection here is exceptional.

After eating, we wandered through a large variety artisan displays and exhibits. Rebecca and each of the kids got new pocket knives from the DirecTV booth, and we sampled honey at the beekeeper's association exhibit. We passed through the farm-life museum where the kids and I admired the massive collection of die- cast cars, trucks, and tractors. Rebecca and I had to explain some of the vintage equipment, tools, and kitchen appliances to the kids. As we exited the rear of the museum building, we discovered a large, fully functional wooden waterwheel. It has a strong resemblance to the one at Berry College in Rome, Georgia.

From there, we continued to explore the exhibits. There are many old buildings on display at the Georgia Mountain Fairgrounds. Many have been moved from other locations and reassembled here. There are numerous cabins, farm buildings, and an old one-room schoolhouse. Demonstrations of mountain farm life were happening all around. The kids were engaged the entire time, and were never bored.

By the time we'd seen the main part of the fairground, the first half of the Ricky Skaggs concert was already past. We decided to head back to Enota for the remainder of the afternoon instead. On the way back, we stopped at Track Rock Gap to see some ancient Native American petroglyphs carved into rocks there. Very interesting. More on that later. For a detailed description of the fairgrounds including dozens of pictures, click here.

Enota Mountain Retreat - Hiawassee, Georgia

PB&J Adventure Journal - October, 2011

One of several waterfalls at Enota Mountain Retreat.

Autumn in the north Georgia mountains is a colorful event, so the Tribe tries to visit the region as much as possible this time of year. The Fall leaves combined with the crisp cool air makes for great camping and hiking. Additionally, numerous seasonal festivals occur in the area, including the Georgia Mountain Fall Festival held annually at the legendary Georgia Mountain Fairgrounds in Hiawassee. This awesome event is what brought us back to Enota.



We camped at Enota in 2008 (see PB&J Adventure Journal entry) when it was bitterly cold. Enota Mountain Retreat is very near Brasstown Bald, the highest peak in the state. The weather up there is different than anywhere else in Georgia, and on that visit in 2008, we awoke to nine degree temperatures and frozen lines our first morning there. Although it was miserably cold on that visit, we decided to come back when it was more pleasant.




When I made reservations for this trip, the initial fee for camping was reasonable. Enota is a non-profit preserve that focuses on ecology and the environment. They have imposed fees to offset the "environmental impact" of their visitors on the area. So, just be warned, they add $5 per day for each child, plus a flat $10, then $5 a day for additional vehicles (in my case, our car carrier), and $5 for a fire permit (includes wood). So, the total cost of camping at Enota Mountain Retreat for a family of 6 for 4 nights (with firewood)? Just shy of $275. One may get the feeling of being nickeled and dimed, or even punished for having too many children. I don't want to linger on this because the money is, after all, going for a good cause. I also feel compelled to mention that, once you've paid for your site, the amenities are, for the most part, free. The farm tour, most popular with the kids, was free, and we participated twice.



A simple rope swing makes for lots of fun.



On Friday, our first full day at Enota, we didn't leave the park. There were hardly any visitors, so the kids had the in-ground trampolines to themselves. They also discovered a rope swing that swung out over the creek allowing them to get good and wet. Thankfully, the afternoon sunshine kept them from getting too cold. At 4pm we joined other campers for the farm tour. This was an awesome experience for the kids (and Mom and Dad too). The animals are very tame and friendly, and milking the cow was an experience they will never forget.

In-ground trampolines. Ingenious!

On Saturday, we drove down to Hiawassee to attend the Fall Festival. It was our first event at the Georgia Mountain Fairgrounds, and we were very impressed. Numerous vendors and exhibits made the visit an educational and entertaining experience. More on that later. On the way back to Enota, we stopped at Track Rock Gap to check-out some ancient petroglyphs carved into rock formations.

Sunday morning was cool, breezy and a little overcast. We decided to hike up to the first set of waterfalls. The hike isn't long, it's just a pretty steep climb. The reward at the end is well worth the huffing and puffing. After that, we took a drive up to Brasstown Bald. At 4,784, Brasstown Bald is the highest point in the state. It was very cold and windy, Rebecca had to buy a couple of extra shirts in the gift shop. The view was spectacular, and the fall colors were already brilliant.
 

After returning to Enota that afternoon, we once again attended the farm tour. By now, the kids were familiar with the animals, and the animals seemed to know them. What a great experience. We also grew to like the farm tour guide, a former Amish farmer with over 40 years experience. He was knowledgeable, friendly, and quite funny.

In summary, the weekend was one we'll remember forever. And, while the cost for camping initially seemed high, we'll probably be back for another visit in the Spring. For more details and lots more pictures, click here.

Jellystone Park - Cave City Kentucky

Yogi oversees the minuature golf course.

Never a Dull Moment
Rebecca had a training session to attend in Louisville on this particular week. We decided to head that way a few days early so we could visit Mammoth Cave National Park. I'd traveled through the area before, and I camped at Jellystone Park in Cave City. Frankly, I hadn't planned on staying here again. My image of the park was from the perspective of someone that really loves the natural surroundings and large campsites of state and national parks. Jellystone is all about amusement and fun. In all fairness, Jellystone Park does have some very nice surroundings.

As I researched and planned for this trip, I could find no better alternatives to Yogi's place. Questionable reviews and the lack of good photographs made the selection of another campground a scary proposition. In hind-site, I'm thankful. There might have been a mutiny had we stayed anywhere else.

When we first pulled into the park, the kids immediately began to take note of the amenities. Statues of Yogi and other Jellystone characters suggested fun. And fun it was!  I had a pretty big problem finding a site that would easily accommodate Homer II (our camper) and the Jeep's trailer. Most of the sites are very high on one end or the other and/or from side to side. I watched as other campers arrived and began to set-up. Regulars seemed prepared to do some pretty major jacking to level their RV's. I also observed that the best sites are the first to be reserved by those that are familiar with the campground.

The kids were never bored.

When the setup job was finished, I rounded-up the crew and loaded them in Willie B (our Jeep) for a ride into Mammoth Cave National Park. The park was very impressive. We saw considerable wildlife on the way to the visitor center. After purchasing tickets for a cave tour, we headed out to explore. It didn't take long for everyone to start begging to go back to Jellystone Park. A "Hey Hey Hey" Ride was beginning very soon. And so it went for the rest of the weekend.

We did make the scheduled cave tour on Saturday, and it was fascinating. The kids thoroughly enjoyed the experience. We drove through the national park's campground, snapping some shots on the way back to the Jellystone Park where we spent the balance of our time.

This was certainly a favorite destination of Rebecca and the kids. We enjoyed the exceptional miniature golf course, painted ceramics, sang karaoke (Kara-Yogi), watched an outdoor movie, sang songs on hay rides, made s'mores, ate waffles, played bingo, and thoroughly sucked every bit of fun possible from Jellystone Park. 

For the rest of the story including lots of pictures and details, click here.

Mammoth Cave National Park

More Than Just a Hole in the Ground

Mammoth Cave, the longest cave in the world. Mammoth Cave National Park is located between Bowling Green and Louisville, Kentucky. It's a beautifully wooded and rugged part of the country. The park's limestone foundation is riddled with hundreds of miles caves. In fact, Mammoth Cave is the longest cave system in the world. Much of the cave is without mineral formations, but the sections of the cave with formations are quite amazing. At nearly 400 explored miles, the sheer size of the cave is hard to fathom, and makes the trip worthwhile. Above ground, this 52,835 acre park is just as awesome as its Swiss cheese basement. The forest is open and clear underneath the massive hardwoods. The dense overhead canopy and abundant wildlife contribute to underbrush control. It's a very well preserved and clean national park brimming with natural beauty and furry creatures.  Much of Mammoth cave has no formations, but where they exist, they are awesome! Near the park's visitor center is a the Mammoth Cave Hotel and the park's primary campground. There are many options for lodging within the park, but camping, while very picturesque and natural, is limited for the extended stay of this family of six. The lack of water and electrical hookups can make stays of more than 2-3 nights a little trying. If you need full hookups, there are several options in nearby Cave City and Park City. Yogi Bear's Jellystone Park, with its child-oriented activities and amenities, is always a hit with the kids. The park's campground is beautiful ! There is plenty to do in the area. If you are here for a short visit, you'll have a hard time deciding which adventure to attempt. There are numerous caves outside the national park that can be toured, including one located in an Australia-themed park called Kentucky Down Under. This area possesses a "retro"  tacky tourist appeal reminiscent of Gatlinburg, Panama City Beach, and Ghost Town in the Sky. Rock shops, go karts, t-shirts, fudge, and zip-lines abound. Many of the attractions are seasonal, so do your homework before booking your accommodations.  For more details including a Journal entry and pictures, click here,

Mountain Heritage Festival - Blairsville, Georgia

A Fun-Filled Festival in a Charming Southern Town.

The first morning of our long Labor Day weekend trip was a sunny Saturday. The top was off the Jeep, and the air was a very comfortable temperature, a stark contrast to the stifling summer heat to which we'd grown accustomed. We swung into Vogel State Park on the way to Blairsville just to see what was happening. We have stayed at Vogel just one time, and really loved it. They have a lake and beach, and lots of beautiful campsites. We have reservations for a late fall visit, and really can't wait. When we arrived at the Mountain Heritage Festival, I think we came in through the back door. I'm glad we did. That is where the old log cabin and farm animals are. The kids learned how to play marbles, and thoroughly enjoyed visiting with the 4H representatives and seeing/petting their animals. I think we may have a goat or two in our future. The festival is held at the site of Blairsville's Mountain Life Museum, just south of the town square. We really enjoyed walking through the extensive exhibits of art and treasures. There was a vast variety of quilts, wood work, yard art, and yummy treats scattered across the museum's lawn. Had we more money, we certainly would have left with a load of goodies. While at the festival, we enjoyed the musical interpretations of several folk music groups, and one especially talented young man on guitar. The music was the icing on the cake because it seemed to complete the experience. The fragrance of funnel cake, boiled peanuts, and scented candles mixed with hay and farm animals induces a peaceful feeling. After visiting every booth at the festival, and sitting through many musical performances, we decided to walk around town just a little. There was supposed to be an antique car show here today, but we were apparently a few hours early. We found a Hole in the Wall, and discovered it was a popular deli. We also walked through a very old 5 and 10 cent store that reminded Rebecca and me of the old dime store from our childhood. We enjoyed a late picnic lunch on the lawn, then headed back across the mountain for our campsite. We made a little side-trip to Helton Creek Falls for a little site-seeing and water play. We sure do love this area, but have to constantly remind ourselves about the presence of bears in the area. Remember not to leave food in your vehicle, especially if it's got a soft top, or no top at all! For more details and lots of pictures of Blairsville and the Mountain Heritage festival, click here!

Dunnaway Gap - Nothing, in the Middle of Nowhere

Dunnaway Gap isn't your typical destination. In fact, unless you're from the immediate area, you probably don't even know it exists. It's located near Armuchee (pronounced arr-merr-chee, with a twang) Georgia within the Chattahoochee National Forest. The view from the ridge to both the east and the west is incredible.

When I was a teenager, my buddies and I would ride motorcycles in this area, along an old petroleum pipeline trail, and over miles of winding mountain roads for hours. Perched on top of the narrow ridge, we would watch Jeeps, dune buggies, and motorcycles try to climb the ridiculously steep western slope (I only saw one succeed, and it was my buddy). Other times, we would watch hang gliders launch from the ridge and sail across Armuchee Valley.
 

Dunnaway Gap Road is dirt, but it is graded well enough for the family sedan, at least to a point. If the weather has been dry, it will be one filthy sedan when you exit. The picture of the road "Willie B" (the Jeep) is on here is actually a secondary road that leads to the summit of the ridge. You can park the sedan at the bottom and walk up a hundred yards or so for the view.

Now, quite frankly, as a destination, Dunnaway Gap offers little more than a view. It's the ride that's the best feature, and the view at the ridge's peak along a petroleum pipeline is bonus. If you want to continue exploring once atop the ridge, you can drive along the forestry service road for several miles. It's a beautiful place year round, especially the Fall, but be aware of hunters during Deer season.

Dunnaway Gap is a pretty remote location, especially if you head on out along the ridge. Make sure someone knows where you are, and check to verify you have enough gas for the full trip. There is no restaurant or gas station up here, so bring what you need. Consider a picnic at the summit. Then you might head down the western side of the ridge for some fresh spring water coming from a pipe in the side of the mountain.

For more details about Dunnaway Gap including pictures and a map, click here.

Note: People ask how we fit 6-7 people in a Jeep Wrangler. Look for the answer to that and more in an upcoming article