Noccalula Falls - Gadsden, Alabama

Adventure Journal Entry Date: July 2012 (More)
I was recently presenting to a group of Alabama teachers when I asked for suggestions for family destinations in their fine state. Numerous educators suggested Noccalula Falls in Gadsden, so I began researching and making plans immediately. The legend is that a Cherokee chieftain promised the hand of his daughter, Noccalula, to a Creek sub-chief in exchange for peace. The young princess was so distraught, she flung herself off the falls and to her death 90 feet below. We enjoy Native American history and legend, but frankly, it was the rest of the park that really got my attention.

Gadsden is a relatively short drive for us, so it worked out to be a great weekend getaway. We left mid afternoon on a Friday and arrived at the Noccalula Falls campground in plenty of time for the kids to enjoy the pool and the walk to the park's playground and falls. The campsite I selected turned out to be perfectly level, so setup was a breeze. We got a little rain through the night, but no storms. Nothing is more relaxing than a light rain on a camper's roof.

The rain continued until mid-morning Saturday, so we had a slow lazy start for the day. When the skies cleared, we headed-out for Noccalula Falls Park. It's a quarter-mile walk, but easy and extremely scenic. From the campground, we walked along a pathway that winds through the public access area, past the wedding chapel, and over a little arched bridge which crosses the stream feeding the waterfalls. The flow of the water affects the beauty of the falls, and on this visit there was some water, but nothing spectacular. If you'd like to see it really roaring, watch this video. Past the falls we could see the scale train and some Teepees.

After paying our admission to the park (which was very reasonable), we boarded the train. It's a small scale train, and the kids loved it. Our first stop was the "petting zoo." We love animals, so this was the highlight of the park. They have a lion that seemed particularly interested in Heath. No, you can't pet the lion. The actual petting zoo area had alpaca, goats, a big ram, lambs, a variety of goats, rabbits, and many other cute fuzzies. Our favorite was a very friendly buck that loved attention and liked to lick the kids' hands.

We wandered through all the old building and tried to imagine what it was like to live in one of these old cabins 200 years ago, especially with no air-conditioning. This part of the park features a very old covered bridge that crosses a coy pond. The fish were massive, inducing ooohs and ahhhs from all of us. Just past the impressive collection of historic buildings is the access to the base of the falls. We decided on this hot humid day, that the view from the top of the falls would be just fine. We did explore the cracks and crevices in the limestone formations. It reminded us of Rock Town near Lafayette, Georgia.
 

After lunch at the resident Jack's restaurant, we walked to the Noccalula Falls miniature golf course. Most people suggested we drive, but we could see it from where we were. It was a whopping 1/8 mile. We were disappointed when we discovered that the cost of miniature golf wasn't included in the park's admission. Any disappointment quickly vanished when we saw the course. Very very nice! The course was designed and constructed by a company that specializes in miniature golf courses. We played all 18 holes, and had a blast in the meantime.

We concluded our day with a swim, some Frisbee,  and a roaring campfire. I can't recall a better time we've ever had. We decided we want to come back in the fall and perhaps at Christmas when the lights are on. The campground is open year-round, but the park is not. Make sure to check their website or call for open/close dates and hours.

For dozens of pictures and more details, visit the PB&J Adventures Noccalula Falls' page.
 

Chieftains Museum - Rome, Georgia

The Home of a Cherokee Leader

The Chieftains Museum is located in the former estate home of Major Ridge, also known as Kah-nung-da-tla-geh (1771-1839), a rebellious Cherokee leader born in the north Georgia mountains. At the rather plush upscale home's core is a very old log cabin, renovated by its wealthy owner in the early 1800's. At the time of the forced exodus of the Cherokee from North Georgia, the Ridge manor was of higher quality than most, if not all others in the area, including those of the white residents. His estate included a ferry, a store, hundreds of fruit trees, rich river bottom farm land, and sadly, well over 30 slaves of African and Creek descent.  The home itself is a fascinating tour, but the stories associated to the home's previous owners are much more interesting. I won't attempt to explain the history of the Ridge family in this short article. It's simply too complicated. However, to spice it up a little, I'll say this: Major Ridge was a Cherokee warrior, hunter, business man, politician, and assassin. He and his son John were directly involved in the signing of the treaty of New Echota, which surrendered the remainder of the Cherokee's land to Georgia. Both paid the ultimate price for doing so. The official Georgia Tribe of Eastern Cherokee tell the story best. The Chieftains Museum is located adjacent Ridge Ferry Park on the banks of the Oostanaula River. Ridge Ferry Park is one of our favorite bike-riding and festival destinations. Ridge Ferry Park hosts a variety of events including an annual Cherokee powwow and one of our favorite art festivals, the Chiaha Harvest Fair. The history of the Southeastern US is fascinating to me. I wish there were a movie about the Creek and Cherokee that told the whole story! The odd personalities and politics of the time, and the near-paradigm that took place. History certainly could have emerged quite differently had time favored the Cherokee. Discovery of gold in their territory sealed their fate. If you would like a good post-Creek history of the region, the Chieftains museum is a must see destination. You should also consider visiting New Echota, the former capitol of the Cherokee Nation located in nearby Calhoun. For history about the natives that lived here prior to the Cherokee, take the short drive to see the Etowah Indian Mounds in Cartersville.

Few homes in the area were finer than Major Ridge's The Chieftains' halls are lined with exhibits ranging from the days of Desoto through the Civil War. Ceremonial masks and hundreds of other historical items are displayed at the Chieftains Museum.

New Echota - Cherokee Capitol

The Pride and Shame of Two Nations - More
 

The original courthouse where the elders
met still stands at New Echota today.



New Echota, founded in 1825, was the first and final capitol of the "unified" Cherokee Nation. The park, now a Georgia Historical Site, is located just off Interstate 75 on highway 225, about an hour north of Atlanta. Here, in what quickly became a bustling little town, hopes of a sovereign government for the Cherokee were both nurtured, then extinguished. Here is where the leaders of a nation of proud immigrants signed a treaty that surrendered their land to a new breed of immigrants. Yes, you read that right; the Cherokee were immigrants. Cherokee migrated from the north and nudged the Muscogee (Creek) Nation to the south and west. The Cherokee migrated south for the same reasons so many other northerners do: a warmer climate, and seemingly abundant natural resources (and a retreat from the European invasion). In 1825, the well armed and aggressive European immigrants were moving south at a rapid pace.

The 1830's Cherokee lived in log
cabins similar to this

The landscape and structures of New Echota capture a key period in the history of the Cherokee. A place where they almost overcame (or assimilated). They had a government very similar to the United States: a constitution, a written language, and, as a nation, a relative amount of wealth. There were those that opposed their "progress" and newly adopted European characteristics. The opposition came from the newly-formed state of Georgia, the US government,  and a good number of the Cherokee themselves. When the "friendly" European visitors discovered gold within Cherokee territory, the onslaught began. The end to any hope of peacefully coexisting with the white settlers was near.
 

The kids sampled old-fashioned hand-
churned butter and sweet buttermilk.

To make a long story short, the Cherokee leaders signed a treaty that either forsook their brethren, or the chieftains sacrificed their own lives for the sake of their people. They were outnumbered and outgunned. What choice did they have? President Andrew Jackson had ignored the Supreme Court's decision to let the Cherokee keep their land, and it would be taken either by force or coercion.

The Cherokee opponents of the treaty retaliated quite violently. The endorsers of the "Treaty of New Echota" were assassinated. The remaining Cherokee were removed. Within ten years of the proud founding of a capitol city, the Cherokee were gone. The endorsers of the "Treaty of New Echota" were assassinated, and the balance of Cherokee were marched West to Oklahoma. 

One of the fireplaces in the old tavern at New Echota.

The march west eventually became known as the Trail of Tears. Women, children, and the elderly were forced to walk much of the way. The cruel cold of winter took about 4,000 of the 15,000 remaining Cherokee. A once proud nation was suddenly silenced. Today, New Echota is an echo of the best of times, and a reminder of the tragic end of a legacy.

Visiting New Echota evokes a range of emotions from amazement and admiration to sorrow and shame. It's a place you must visit if at all possible. It's a history that must not be forgotten.

Lots more New Echota pictures and details can be found here.
 

We Have Walked on Sacred Ground

Etowah Indian Mounds - Cartersville, Georgia

The Etowah Indian Mounds are located near Cartersville, Georgia, midway between Chattanooga and Atlanta, just a few miles off Interstate 75. The landmark has a very nice little museum and interpretive center. The mounds are unbelievable.

Archaeologists believe this site was the principal village in the region between 1,000 - 1,500 AD. It's easy to see why this rich valley was a popular place to live. The Etowah River flows through the property, and the mounds provided a safe retreat from the annual flood waters that breached its banks. The floods of the Etowah also brought rich silt (and gold) from the mountains and provided the valley with resources unmatched in the region. Notice the ancient Native American fish weir, very visible in the picture below (click to zoom).

When visiting this historic park, one of the first things you learn is that the entire site is considered "sacred ground" by the descendants of the original inhabitants. In times past, members of the Muscogee (Creek) families buried their loved ones under their river-cane beds when they passed. Over several hundred years, most of the village became one large cemetery. What this means today is archaeological excavation is next to impossible. Only one of the site's mounds has been fully excavated, but it revealed a tremendous amount insight into the lifestyle of ancient city's inhabitants. 

The Etowah Indian Mounds were built over many generations, each adding its own later. One mound, the tallest, was dedicate to the Chief. Another mound was dedicated to the superstar ball players (little has changed  in 1,000 years.)  The excavated mound was found to be a mortuary mound, final resting place for over 300 highly regarded tribe members.

Opinions differ as to the significance of the other mounds (10+ total). I have my opinions, but I'm hardly an expert. Click here for many more pictures and details.